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Slow Cycle Tour - September 2006

Crossing Port Stephens we've found ourselves in a new weather zone. Suddenly the air is moist and muggy rather than hot and dry.

Stopping in at the Mungo Campground today we stumbled through our first pocket of rainforest. We stumbled because of the large roots and because we were constantly looking up at the canopy of cabbage palms and twisted vines overhead.

Mungo Brush Rainforest Walk, NSW
What you'll see on the Mungo Rainforest Walk, NSW



The walk is just two kilometres long, is free and is well worth stopping over for if you are cycling between Hawks Nest and Bulahdelah on Mungo Brush Road.

The sign at the beginning of the walk said you may even come across goannas and dingoes but I think you would need to be earlier or later than us for that. We did it around midday.

To be there at the right time for the wildlife you may want to stay over. The campground is $15AUS/tent/night in the offseason or $20AUS/tent/night in Summer. It has beautiful views across Bombah Broadwater and to the forested hills beyond. There are eco toilets and minimal water supplies for handwashing only.

Bombah Broadwater, NSW
View of Bombah Broadwater from Mungo Brush Campsite, NSW



The sign at the entrance also said there was drinking water but I didn't find any and it should not be relied on. This is a popular spot. If this campground looks too full, there are numerous others between Hawks Nest and the Bombah Point Ferry to choose from. Most have either lake views or are close to the Myall sanddunes and Mungo beach which is lapped by the Tasman Sea.
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Book Review: Giant Steps by Karl Bushby

September 29th 2006 07:35
Ok so this isn't a cycling book but it is about going long distances - by foot with a trailer. Bushby is heading from the Punta Arenas in Chile to Britain without a support team and without using any form of transport apart from his own two feet. The book covers the first section as far as Alaska.

Giant Steps is a condensed version of Bushby's diaries over approximately six or seven years. I thought the diary fomat would be a bit boring but editor Jonny Beardsall has done an outstanding job of picking the best bits.

This book is always entertaining though sometimes I find the personality of the writer a bit irritating. Why, for instance, if you've been dreaming of doing this trip for at least three years before D Day would you refrain from saving any money?

Maybe it's just me, but I believe in making your dreams happen yourself rather than relying on others to provide for you financially. To be fair, he only implies that the 500 pounds he left the UK with was the only money he had so perhaps he had been saving money but it just doesn't come across that way in the book.

The things that he finds the most tragic while writing on the road are actually the things that I found most hilarious. Because the diary is a condensed version of several years, Bushby comes across as quite accident-prone. He nearly rips out a tooth while trying to tie a hammock for instance. His failed attempts to disguise himself as a South American itinerant in Columbia are also classic and his heroic paddle across the croc-infested waters of the Darien Gap are harrowing and exciting.

Worth reading.

Book: Giant Steps
Author: Karl Bushby
Publisher: Time Warner Original
Year: 2006
ISBN: 0316729582

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Cycling Nannup to Pemberton, WA

September 27th 2006 12:12
Farmland gives way to forests of giant karri trees, marri and jarrah as you pedal into tall timber country. During the week the Vasse Hwy is quiet almost all the way to the Karri Valley Resort around 20kms from Pemberton.

There are a number of climbs to pull your bike over but nothing so taxing as to diminish your enjoyment of the forest. The road is smooth tarmac most of the way with sections of winding roads covered in tree debris that requires careful management.

After around 57kms from Nannup, you can turn left into the Karri Valley Resort where there is a kiosk and tables and chairs beside a pleasant lake. You can also stay here if you're cashed up.

The township of Pemberton grew up around the timber mills established here in the early 20th century. During the past 20 years it appears to have been focussing more and more on the tourist dollar albeit it in an understated way.

Pemberton, WA
View of Pemberton, WA


The town is one of small timber cottages. I've stayed numerous times at the Pimelea Cottages which is quite a distance from town for a cyclist. Several small cottages with dorm rooms, kitchens and lounges with open log fires are available for the price of a backpacker bed.

In town, the caravan park's tentsites are located down by the creek and get a bit wet and mucky after rain. For a treat, go across the road and purchase a fresh, live, marron - a kind of freshwater cray or large yabbie. They'll even sell you a recipe to go along with the creatures. If cooking live marron isn't your thing there are a couple of places in town where you can purchase one already cooked and served up on a plate.

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Cycling Balingup to Nannup, WA

September 26th 2006 11:48
We thought the 41kms along the Balingup-Nannup Road would be a breeze so we took our time departing Balingup. "Just one more carton of Browne's Coffee Chill," I said lazing back in the morning sun. "The road follows the river so it shouldn't be too hard," said my partner knowingly.

We should have known we were in for a bit of a hard day when we saw the treacherous gravel roadworks at the road's beginning. It started to climb straight away then descended then climbed then descended then climbed more steeply then descended and climbed more steeply still. Well, you get the picture. You've got to concentrate the entire way because if you don't, you'll end up in the wrong gear on a very short but wall-like climb


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It's an uphill road from Collie along the Collie Preston Road but after about 10-12kms there are enough descents to speed you over the remaining hills into Mumballup. Mumballup is right at the intersection and consists of a tavern and two houses. The tavern is presided over by a galah trying to squawk louder than the heavy metal music. You can pick up a counter meal and a drink and camp in the field next door if you wish.

Mumballup Tavern
Mumballup Tavern

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The Port Kembla cycle path is a little detour you can take on they way into Wollongong.

The path takes you right past Port Kembla's heavy industry so if you're just not getting enough of a stinging-eye sensation from your sweat, your sunscreen or stray bugs, try the fumes of Port Kembla


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Where am I today... Bermagui, NSW

September 23rd 2006 13:22
Bermagui was our last rest day before the bright lights of Sydney so in my mind I'm...

...eating breakfast on the headland overlooking Little Mt Dromedary. There's a baby wattle bird in a nest in the bush beside me with the morning sun in its eye. It's Mum just beat up a seagull


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Dwellingup to Collie, Western Australia

September 19th 2006 05:40
The section of the Munda Biddi that runs from Dwellingup to Bidjar Ngoulin Camp is one of the easiest of the whole Munda Biddi trail. We took our time, sleeping in, buying groceries and sending postcards (some of us still do) in Dwellingup before setting off to do this leisurely 30kms or so.

The wide/gravel tracks and roads of the Munda Biddi take you past the Nanga Mill campsite and into the shady forest. You're likely to have the Bidjar Ngoulin shelter, which is close to a gurgling stream, to yourself apart from the truly enormous spider that hangs near the dunny roll in the toilet. Check out the comments book for some light entertainment


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Nullarbor Campsites: SA Border to Ceduna

September 18th 2006 12:05
By the time you reach the WA/SA Border you're over halfway to the next town - Ceduna. Make the most of this last 500-plus kms of remote Aussie highway at the best campsites...

WA/SA Border Village - "Village" is a bit of a misleading term for this roadhouse but the campsite has nice shady trees and sandy soil. There is a covered area with a woodfire BBQ. Keep the doors to the toilets and you're tent shut to avoid unwanted visits from snakes


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I found this book for $5 in the Newsagency at Denmark in WA and, like the bargain hunting cycle tourer I am, I snapped it up.

It's written in the mid-nineties so you can't rely on the detailed information about accommodation and food. However, we've found this book's route notes are still surprisingly accurate - even those related to changeable gravel roads and tracks in Western Australia


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Facts about Australia’s Saltbush

September 16th 2006 04:42
Cycle tourers crossing remote outback regions in Australia are sure to notice the dominance of saltbush in scrubland areas. You may find little else to look at during much of your ride! Here’s some fast facts to add a little salt to your day…

Australian Saltbush
Example of Australian Saltbush on the Nullarbor

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The John Eyre Highway between Norseman and Eucla is one of Australia’s remotest. With just a thin sheet of canvas between you and the elements, a cycle tourer needs to know where to camp…

Fraser Range Station (approx. 97kms from Norseman) – ok, so you have to pay $1 extra for a hot shower but don’t hold that against this excellent campground and working sheep station. The sites are on flat red soil beneath peppercorn trees. Buy lamb chops from the station shop then check out the huge BBQ/Kitchen area


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All the off-road cycle paths in WA are worth doing despite the occasional bone rattling. My two favourites are the Munda Biddi Trail and the rail trail through the John Forrest National Park. Either could be incorporated into a cycle tourer's itinerary into or out of Perth for a bit of a bush whack.

Riding the Munda Biddi
Munda Biddi trail to Bidjar Ngoulin Camp

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Cycle Route: Fremantle to Dwellingup

September 14th 2006 01:02
As a cycle tourer it's not often you'll get a recommendation to leave a capital city via the freeway. Perth is the exception.

The Kwinana Freeway heading south has a wide, smooth bicycle path which takes you well beyond the city limits and its busy streets. We got onto the freeway from Fremantle via North Lake Road then Farrington Road.
Bike path from Perth
Dodgy Dutchman heading to Serpentine via Perth Cycle Path

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Some of us cycle for fun, some of us cycle for kudos… I cycle for the food! The joy of unashamedly tucking into my favourite baked goods is a huge motivator. Here are the best bakeries between Fremantle, WA, and Frankston, Victoria.

The Millhouse Bakery, Fremantle
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Slow Cycle Tour Intro.

September 10th 2006 04:56
Hello from the slowest cycle tourer ever to pedal the planet.

I fell in love with long distance cycle touring around the time I fell for a Dutchman – funny coincidence huh? Last year I cycled solo and unassisted around Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos on an 18-year-old road bike called “Rocky


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