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Nullarbor Campsites: SA Border to Ceduna

September 18th 2006 12:05
By the time you reach the WA/SA Border you're over halfway to the next town - Ceduna. Make the most of this last 500-plus kms of remote Aussie highway at the best campsites...

WA/SA Border Village - "Village" is a bit of a misleading term for this roadhouse but the campsite has nice shady trees and sandy soil. There is a covered area with a woodfire BBQ. Keep the doors to the toilets and you're tent shut to avoid unwanted visits from snakes.

Border Village Campsite Nullarbor Australia
Camping @ Border Village, Nullarbor, Australia



Lookout (12-13kms from Border Village) - enjoy fantastic views over the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight. This is one of the few sheltered lookouts/rest areas so is popular with campers despite the fact that there aren't really any facilities.

Nullarbor Lookout
Camper goes to toilet @ Nullarbor Lookout


Rest Area (80-81kms) left hand side - there is quite a bit of bush to shelter in and a comfy table and chair. It seems to be a favourite spot with motorists needing a dump so watch out for those dodgy looking tissues.


Parking Area (104-106kms) right hand side - there were no official signs to mark this as a parking area but it shouldn't be too hard to find as it is one of the few spots where there is enough bush to camp in. It seemed like it was being "rehabilitated" as there was a big pile of gravel out front. The soil here is soft and sandy and it is much more sheltered here than at the lookout 5kms further.

Nullarbor Lookout South Australia
EG of unsheltered lookout on Nullarbor


Nullarbor Hotel/Motel (183-184kms) - popular with caravanners desperate to catch up on their soaps using the satellite TV connection here. Also popular with dingoes which are reputedly bold enough to bite through tents for food. Camp under the trees, it's gravel and you'll need to kick away some dog turds, but it is pleasant enough.

Yalata Rest Area (220kms) - the next 148kms from the Nullarbor Hotel to Nundroo is through Aboriginal land. Stick to rest areas if you must camp here rather than trespassing on Aboriginal land. There is a good one under 40kms from the Nullarbor which will lessen your next day's mileage considerably. It has a table, some trees and a pit toilet with a view just over the fence. There is another rest area some 30-35kms further on the left hand side but it is much more exposed to the road. NOTE! The Yalata Roadhouse has closed indefinitely. I heard this was because the building came from Maralinga and was made of decomposing asbestos.

Nundroo Roadhouse (331-334kms) - Wow! Grass! There's glass in it but who's complaining? Get in early to shower as there are only two. Get more greenery in the roadhouse - fresh steamed brocolli never tasted so good.

Penong (409-412kms) - are we there yet? This campsite is run by a friendly lady with stories of every cyclist that's ever darkened her door. There is a massive shed with a TV and table at one end and nice clean showers toilets. The surface is hard, bright white crushed quartz and is very very hard to drive a tent peg into.

Next stop - Ceduna - where you can choose from at least three Caravan Parks.

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The John Eyre Highway between Norseman and Eucla is one of Australia’s remotest. With just a thin sheet of canvas between you and the elements, a cycle tourer needs to know where to camp…

Fraser Range Station (approx. 97kms from Norseman) – ok, so you have to pay $1 extra for a hot shower but don’t hold that against this excellent campground and working sheep station. The sites are on flat red soil beneath peppercorn trees. Buy lamb chops from the station shop then check out the huge BBQ/Kitchen area.

Balladonia Hotel/Motel (190kms) – the day-to-day operations of the best roadhouse on the Nullarbor are taken care of by a bunch of backpackers who look stunned to find themselves in one of the remotest places on earth. Secure yourself a covered wooden table and set yourself up under the eucalypts.

Baxter Rest Area (304kms) – set back from the road in a huddle of eucalypts this is a popular rest area so look forward to some company. Set yourself up by a table and prepare a pile of stones to repel any curious dingoes. Great view from the pit toilet across the limestone plain.

Baxter Rest Area
Camping at Rest Areas on Australia's Nullarbor


Caiguna (370kms) – choose between a gravel car park, a landing strip and a rutted patch of scrub on the edge of the wilderness. Be prepared for broken sleep on nights when the supply plane is due.

Cocklebiddy Roadhouse (436kms) / Parking Area (453kms) – at Cocklebiddy you’ll pay $13 to sleep without shelter beside the road and its roaring road trains. The ground is uneven and there is little shelter from the infamous Cocklebiddy winds. Grab a $3 shower then cycle another 17kms to a sheltered parking area situated on a hilltop after the turn off for the Eyre Bird Sanctuary.

Madura Hotel/Motel (526kms) – bush camping at its best provided you stay away from the noise of the generator. Don’t let the hordes of bus tourists into the camp toilets – you’ll miss out on hot water.

Mundrabilla Roadhouse (642kms) / Parking Area (646kms) – the campground at Mundrabilla was closed for renovations but 4-5kms further is a sheltered parking area amongst Mallee trees. Soft sandy soil and plenty of firewood.

Eucla (704kms) – rocky but pleasant campsite with fantastic views over the Eucla sand dunes and the Great Southern Ocean.


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Some of us cycle for fun, some of us cycle for kudos… I cycle for the food! The joy of unashamedly tucking into my favourite baked goods is a huge motivator. Here are the best bakeries between Fremantle, WA, and Frankston, Victoria.

The Millhouse Bakery, Fremantle
This has to be one of the best value eateries on Freo’s famous cappuccino strip. Watch the Millhouse’s expressive, Italian Barista as he pumps out strong and generous coffees. I recommend their thick pancakes covered in fresh fruit and drizzled with maple syrup for breakfast ($8-$9) or their homemade pate and baguettes for lunch (around $8).

Mundrabilla Roadhouse, John Eyre Highway, (alias UFO Country), WA
Who would’ve thunk that a remote roadhouse could produce such manna? Mundrabilla Roadhouse could not offer campsites as they were closed for renovations. We opted instead to spend our unspent camping budget ($13) on cake. Giant slabs of coffee cake accompanied by ice-cold Browne’s Coffee Chills were thrilling alternatives to the 83-odd muesli bars we ate while cycling the Nullarbor.

The French Bakery, Whyalla, SA
This bakery opens early – around 6.30am – so is perfect for a pre-ride brekky. The friendly staff fed us warm muffins, delicious party pies and milk for under $10. We came back for lunch and snacked on Vietnamese-style baguettes with sweet pork, pate and green paw-paw salad then filled our front panniers with coffee scrolls and ate them on the road to Port Augusta.

The Mount Eliza Bakehouse, Humphries Road, Mount Eliza
Get great buns! Head up Frankston’s infamous Oliver’s Hill to tighten your own buns then turn into Humphries Road. Just before the roundabout is this unassuming local bakery specialising in buns of all shapes and flavours. Mocha buns are my personal favourite. Get in early and be prepared to fight off an old lady or two (who buy in bulk) for the privilege of securing your own for around $2.
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