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It's a slow journey climbing gradually out of Stokes Inlet and back to the main road. Once there, the same rough as guts surface that brought you as far as Stokes Inlet, takes you out again.

There are some steep sections in and out of creek beds but much of this road is flatter than previously. The road passes cultivated and cleared areas with farms so there's not always a lot of cover from the wind. One section of the road is lined with large conifers which creates a wind tunnel effect. We had a headwind that day so found this section very frustrating.

Again, there are no supplies until Esperance. The only sign of life I saw on the day we cycled this route was a tennis court. It was in the middle of nowhere but there was an intense grudge match underway and everyone had their eyes on the ball.


Nearing Esperance we took a right hand turn at the Tourist Route (Pink Lake Drive) that runs past the Pink Lake on your right. From this you take a left on Pink Lake Road which pretty much takes you right into town and the Esplanade/Foreshore of Esperance. It takes you through some hilly suburbs where big houses on generous blocks of land give way to busy streets and brick veneers huddled wall to wall.

There is a Big 4 Caravan Park a stone's throw from the town centre. Take a right at the Esplanade then another right just before the railway and the entrance is down another street on your right. We splurged on a $55AUS/2pax/night cabin.

The best coffee in town can be found at the Cinema Cafe on the first street back from the Esplanade as you head toward the caravan park entrance.

Esperance is a beach lover and nature lover's wet dream. To get out on the bay or to Cape Le Grand, you can join one of the many tours that leave for the area's beauty spots. Ask at the Caravan Park for more details.


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This is another long day of rolling roads which gradually iron out closer to Stokes Inlet National Park. Unfortunately, the closer you get to your destination, the worse the road surface becomes. It was a real battle to ride in a straight line on the verge and out of the way of roadtrains when rattling and bumping over corrugations and jerking over ruts, potholes and hard to see ridges.

road to Stokes inlet
More roadtrains on the treacherous road to Stokes Inlet National Park, WA


Roadworks were underway close to the new mine near Ravensthorpe and you may even see some of your new roadworker friends from the Ravensthorpe caravan park. Perhaps they will improve the road surface at some stage soon.

Around 70-80kms out of Ravensthorpe, the only roadhouse is on your right hand side. It is run by a grumpy dude and hasn't much in the way of supplies so stock up in Ravensthorpe.

Across the road is a shaded park with tables where you can use the loo and fill your water bottles up. Make sure you do as there isn't any more water until you hit Esperance. There is an info map in the park showing exactly where the Stokes Inlet National Park is.

The Stokes Inlet National Park Campground is reached via an 8-10km gravel side road on the right hand side. The surface is pretty good though it is sometimes corrugated and has some deep sections of gravel.

Stokes inlet national park, western australia
Guido riding the access road to the Stokes Inlet National Park Campsite


It was a beautiful ride in the late afternoon sunlight with kangaroos leaping across the track ahead. It cost us $10AUS/2pax/night to camp. In peak times there may be camp caretakers but otherwise you need to pay at the pay station on the left hand side and attach your ticket to the outside of your tent for the ranger to check later.

There are three camping areas. We chose the one closest to the main road. It had a pit toilet and cozy corners to pitch tents but no water. There is no fresh water at Stokes Inlet so fill up in Ravensthorpe or in the Roadhouse on the way. The campsite closest to the water reputedly gets lots of snakes.
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Even with a tailwind this was a long, hard day. A couple of kilometres out of Jerramungup, a longish climb out of a creek bed sets the tone for the day. There are lots more hills to climb and the longest and hardest comes just 20kms out of Ravensthorpe.

Leave early and cram your panniers with food and water because once you leave Jerramungup there's nowhere to stock up en route. I suggest two days worth of food and water just in case you get a puncture or a technical hitch that slows you down.

The scenery improves dramatically after Jerramungup with views across the enormous Fitzgerald River National Park to the hills on the coast. We had rain the day we rode this route which was a refreshing change after days and days of heat haze.

Ravensthorpe, WA
The Ravensthorpe pub in Western Australia serves good counter meals


Near Ravensthorpe you start a winding hill climb where several friendly P platers yelled nasty things out the window, threw cans of cola at us and tried to grab our flags. Don't be put off. Ravensthorpe is a nice enough town though the bakery closed down long ago.

There is a supermarket, a pub with good counter meals for around $15AUS and there's even a shop selling fluoro safety vests and other gear.

The caravan park is full of sculptures made out of recycled materials. It was overflowing with roadworkers and mine workers at the time of our visit. $14AUS/2pax/night by the mossie infested pond and the dusty outdoor camp kitchen.
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All too soon you leave the shelter of the Stirling Ranges and hit the harsh, dry, yellow wheat fields. Get used to it! There isn't much else to look at between Bluff Knoll and Jerramungup.

Stirling Ranges, WA
Leaving the Stirling Ranges behind and saying hello to the wheat silos in WA

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Using the Albany AndiMap available from the tourist information centre or at http://www.andimaps.com.au/, it is possible to cycle along a bike path beside the beach to Emu Point and beyond all the way to Lower King Road.

This is a hassle-free way to leave Albany's busy streets behind. We stayed at Emu Point so got a head start. Follow the bike path along Lower King Road till it ends then continue on Lower King Road turning left up Norwood Rd to Chester Pass Road. At Bakers Junction, your last chance for a feed for many miles, take the left hand fork to the Stirling Ranges


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Demark to Albany, WA, 57-58kms

October 18th 2006 05:09
"Don't worry," said the shopowner at Young's Siding. "The rain often doesn't make it over the hills so you may not get wet at all today."

Rain had been threatening over the hills near Wilsons Inlet the whole 19kms from Denmark to the small general store at Young's Sidings where we huddled under the balcony with a cold milk each


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When undertaking longer cycling tours in Australia it is inevitable that you will, at some point, get hot under the collar. Even when the weather's cool, it only takes one twit forcing you into the gravel by screeching to a halt to answer his mobile phone in a bicycle lane to get your blood on the boil. Here's some ideas on how to keep yourself cool when temperatures and tempers start to flare...

Claire in Norseman Camp Kitchen
Effects of too much sun!

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The route between Walpole and Denmark follows the South Western Hwy via Nornalup and Bow River for around 67-70kms. The road was busy at Easter with thousands of edgy parents in 4WDs and surfers in utes closing in on Denmark for a holiday with the kids.

The first half of the ride is quite moderate with some long flat sections. We stopped at Nornalup for a second breakfast but found the teahouse shut for Easter. The Bow River Roadhouse was a great alternative with shady tables under trees and delicious baked pies


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Because cyclists don't do long hauls between major towns and their net cafes, here's the lowdown on some of the small town/big town/no town places to access the net in Australia...

Using the internet in Mt Remarkable
Melrose internet 'cafe'

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Ok, we are not gung-ho cyclists so there are way worse routes than these. But for anyone else out there who tends to cycle middle of the road rather than off the beaten track here are some yucky roads...

The Lakes Way Road, Bulahdelah to Forster, NSW - rough as guts edges, disappearing verges, speeding traffic, buses that hate you


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Sometimes when going into new territory or facing a day of big hills, I get nervous. Being nervous means getting diorreah... not great on the bicycle. To prevent myself from getting rigid with self doubt, I find it best to do the most mundane, day-to-day routine tasks. Here's some suggestions to calm your pre-ride nerves...

1. Buy more muesli bars. Can you ever have enough oats? Stock up on your favourite brand or get your oats back with a new variety


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The hard steep climb out of Pemberton wasn't made any easier by the presence of the "dodgy dude" halfway up. We began calling him this after two days of him practically stalking us. We'd be cycling along, minding our own business, and there he would be, parked on the side of the road, window down, glasses all steamed up and a big smile on his face. I still have his rego number and a description in my diary.

After the turn off to Northcliffe, the road is pretty straight which in WA often means rolling hills. You'll cycle first through more stunning tall trees before the road opens out and becomes farmland


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Cycling Nannup to Pemberton, WA

September 27th 2006 12:12
Farmland gives way to forests of giant karri trees, marri and jarrah as you pedal into tall timber country. During the week the Vasse Hwy is quiet almost all the way to the Karri Valley Resort around 20kms from Pemberton.

There are a number of climbs to pull your bike over but nothing so taxing as to diminish your enjoyment of the forest. The road is smooth tarmac most of the way with sections of winding roads covered in tree debris that requires careful management


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Cycling Balingup to Nannup, WA

September 26th 2006 11:48
We thought the 41kms along the Balingup-Nannup Road would be a breeze so we took our time departing Balingup. "Just one more carton of Browne's Coffee Chill," I said lazing back in the morning sun. "The road follows the river so it shouldn't be too hard," said my partner knowingly.

We should have known we were in for a bit of a hard day when we saw the treacherous gravel roadworks at the road's beginning. It started to climb straight away then descended then climbed then descended then climbed more steeply then descended and climbed more steeply still. Well, you get the picture. You've got to concentrate the entire way because if you don't, you'll end up in the wrong gear on a very short but wall-like climb


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