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'Maryborough, Hip and Happy, the Happiest place in Queensland' proclaimed the giant signboard on the way into town. It featured an old dude in a headset rockin out.

Maryborough is where the author of "Mary Poppins", PL Travers (real name Helen Lyndon Goff), was born and lived till the death of her father when she was aged seven. The information centre has a potted history of her life and the Proud Marys of Maryborough have erected a statue of Mary Poppins on Richmond Street.

"Jeez, that Mary Poppins looks like a midget," I said to my boyfriend only to discover when looking at this picture that I am no taller!


Mary Poppins and Claire, Maryborough, Qld
A pair of midgets, Claire and Mary Poppins in Maryborough, Queensland




























Whoever does the tourism marketing for Maryborough should be commended. The Maryborough magazine makes the town sound like the most happening place between Surfers and Cairns and I had been looking forward to getting there for days.

Unfortunately, we arrived in Maryborough on a wet and windy Sunday when all those happy people were behind closed doors. You could have fired a cannon down the main street and not hit anyone.

(In fact, that's apparently just what they do on a Thursday at 1pm in commemoration of the time when they used to shoot an old VOC bronze gun everyday at 1pm so the townspeople could set their clocks. The mid-18th century gun can still be seen outside the Town Hall.)


Maryborough on a Sunday
Hip and Happy Maryborough in Qld



"You'll be back said the proprietor of the pub on the way into town."

'Huh!' thought I. 'I don't think so, I don't want to drink my coffee at the pub.' Yet back I came ten minutes later after a visit to the information centre revealed that getting a coffee on a Sunday was a choice between the pub and McDonalds.

The proprietor of the caravan park put it nicely when he told me; "Maryborough is traditional, people like to have Sundays off." Down the road, a shopowner was a little more blunt. He's named his shop the "Inconvenience Store".


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Thumbs up to Coffs Harbour in NSW for providing a sheltered bicycle path alongside the busy Pacific Hwy.

The cycle path (pictured) appears to follow parts of the old highway and wends its way past quiet suburbia on the right hand side and roaring traffic on the left.

It begins about six kilometres out of town, just before the highway verge gets tighter. To get onto it from the Pacific Hwy you take the highway exit on the left signed to Sawtell then take a right at the roundabout and a left onto the path.

There is a sign indicating the bicycle path at this exit but it is a little confusing as it does not indicate where to go but rather just says something along the lines of - 6km off highway path.

Coffs Harbour Cycling Path
Following the Coffs Harbour cycle path next to the Pacifc Hwy, NSW


You also need to keep a close eye out for faded bicycles painted on the tarmac so that you can stay on the path correctly.

Taking a right at the roundabout for Stadium Road, you run into a bicycle lane which continues till just before the Hogbin Road roundabout. Go through the Hogbin Road roundabout and get onto another bicycle path on the other side. If you take a left and continue up Hogbin Road it takes you to the intersection of Albany Street where you turn left. Turn right into Daley Street then left into Little Street for the centre.

Easy peezy
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Crossing Port Stephens we've found ourselves in a new weather zone. Suddenly the air is moist and muggy rather than hot and dry.

Stopping in at the Mungo Campground today we stumbled through our first pocket of rainforest. We stumbled because of the large roots and because we were constantly looking up at the canopy of cabbage palms and twisted vines overhead.

Mungo Brush Rainforest Walk, NSW
What you'll see on the Mungo Rainforest Walk, NSW


The walk is just two kilometres long, is free and is well worth stopping over for if you are cycling between Hawks Nest and Bulahdelah on Mungo Brush Road.

The sign at the beginning of the walk said you may even come across goannas and dingoes but I think you would need to be earlier or later than us for that. We did it around midday.

To be there at the right time for the wildlife you may want to stay over. The campground is $15AUS/tent/night in the offseason or $20AUS/tent/night in Summer. It has beautiful views across Bombah Broadwater and to the forested hills beyond. There are eco toilets and minimal water supplies for handwashing only.

Bombah Broadwater, NSW
View of Bombah Broadwater from Mungo Brush Campsite, NSW


The sign at the entrance also said there was drinking water but I didn't find any and it should not be relied on. This is a popular spot. If this campground looks too full, there are numerous others between Hawks Nest and the Bombah Point Ferry to choose from. Most have either lake views or are close to the Myall sanddunes and Mungo beach which is lapped by the Tasman Sea.
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Where am I today... Bermagui, NSW

September 23rd 2006 13:22
Bermagui was our last rest day before the bright lights of Sydney so in my mind I'm...

...eating breakfast on the headland overlooking Little Mt Dromedary. There's a baby wattle bird in a nest in the bush beside me with the morning sun in its eye. It's Mum just beat up a seagull


[ Click here to read more ]
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Slow Cycle Tour Intro.

September 10th 2006 04:56
Hello from the slowest cycle tourer ever to pedal the planet.

I fell in love with long distance cycle touring around the time I fell for a Dutchman – funny coincidence huh? Last year I cycled solo and unassisted around Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos on an 18-year-old road bike called “Rocky


[ Click here to read more ]
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